Planning
your own extended trip takes some work but can give unique and unforgettable
experiences. Having a clear idea of what you want these experiences to be from
the start makes organising it all much easier.
My partner was keen to tour
Europe. She had a taste of UK, France and Iceland several years ago and has
wanted to dive a bit deeper into some other countries since then. After
accruing annual leave it seemed like the time was right so we set to work
figuring out what we could do in a 2 month visit.
1 Year Prior
We did an extended tour of
the Western USA, Alaska and Canada in 2010 which gave us a good starting point
of what we enjoyed doing on an overseas holiday. After reflecting on that trip
and what we expected Europe could offer we decided to prioritise how to get a
solid taste of European:
- Sport
– hiking, running, climbing, and mountaineering
- Culture
– art, food, conversation and events
- Sightseeing
– walking, driving, views and unique experiences
Hiking and running won out
over skiing so we scheduled time off to visit the European summer (Aussie
winter). For this trip we wanted to get stuck into experiences and be well
organised given how difficult and time consuming it can be to plan ahead while on
the road.
After an unsuccessful
attempt at using Pinterest to share ideas between us, we settled on using
Google Maps to compile places and events we could potentially visit. After a
few weeks of surfing the net and saving locations to a shared map an image
started to form of where to go, with Italy clearly being the center of
attention.
9 Months Prior
Locking in a final
time-frame and touring route came together pretty quickly. At one stage it
looked like a summer events calendar for a sponsored ultramarathon runner, and
at another it was more like a coastal island hopping beach combing jaunt. In
the end we settled on linking places which gave a good spread of the sporting,
cultural and sightseeing experiences we had identified early on.
Elouise registered in the
lottery for the highly sought after TDS race, a 120km run from Aosta in Italy
to Chaminox in France. She managed to snag one of the 1,600 places so that was
a fixed place and time to plan around. I found out about a social group of
young professionals who were organising a camp at Derwentwater Hostel in the
Lakes District of UK so booked in to meet some people from throughout Europe.
Before long we had
connected the dots and ended up with a quick look at the UK followed by a trip
up through Italy from south to north, across to Chamonix in France and
finishing with a lap of Switzerland.
The rest of our planning
included:
6 months prior
Booked flights, got maps,
started booking accommodation and luckily each of our managers approved
extended leave! Visa were not needed for the countries we planned to visit.
3 Months Prior
Estimated a budget and
converted money into an International Travel card. Booked internal transport
(buses and trains). Got travel insurance and used a spreadsheet to track costs,
bookings and contacts.
1 Month Prior
Got an international
drivers licence (cheap cardboard job from NRMA), put together a packing list
and did a trial run. Sorted out automatic bill payments, postal redirection and
registered in Smart Traveller. Downloaded podcasts and translation apps for the
phone.
1 week Prior
Printed off all booking
documents, confirmed flight details, let the bank know heading OS, and put
together an emergency contact list (friends, family, embassies, bank, etc)
Experiences
Wondering how it all went?
Overall it was spot on what we were hoping for. Lots of increasingly big
mountains, great coastal touring, food and local events. There was only a day
or two we would have changed but given we were planning it all from the other
side of the world it came together better than we had hoped.
Upon landing in a new town
our typical ticklist went along the lines of: 1) Check in, 2) Go to the local
tourist info centre, 3) Get to the highest vantage point, 4) Explore whatever
else takes our fancy.
UK
The deep history of the UK
was immediately on show, especially compared to Australia where a building that
has been around for 100 years is considered old. I was struck by the lack of
variety in architecture though, especially in the smaller towns. Stacking rocks
for houses and fences must have been a popular profession back in the day.
A birds Eye view was
first on the agenda
Sightseeing in
London
Topping out on Scafell
peak, Lakes District.
Intense focus to win a
pub quiz
Scotland had a strong vibe
that they intend to be independent of the UK. It was good to see their culture
on display and the countryside looked inviting.
A typical coastal
escarpment in Scotland
Italy
The Amalfi coastline was
stunning. The mountains were just as big as those in the UK except plonked
right next to an aqua blue sea. The change in temperature was a shock going
from the cool humidity of Scotland to a baking salty heat. As beautiful as it
was it was difficult to relax in public areas with the constant hoard of Honda scooters
buzzing around.
Top of Capri looking
back toward the Amulfi Coast and Sorrento
Touring the cities of Italy
in mid summer meant contending with heat, crowds and pushy street vendors. Our
strategy of getting up early and running through the city including local
landmarks was a great way to cover any big distances early then allow more time
for relaxing activities in the afternoon.
A cat in a shady spot
at the Colosseum, Rome
Crowds of tourists
exploring Venice
Hiking the Alta Via 1
through the middle of the Dolomites was a highlight of highlights. There were
great trails, huts, food and people along the way. The area is one of a kind
and made for stunning sunrise and sunsets. Seeing so many families hiking
together was a great insight to European culture.
Horses on the trail in
the Dolomites
Topping out on a Via
Ferrata (Iron Way) route at the top of the Dolomites
Recovering from the
trail in James Bond style at Villa Del Balbianello
Who painted that? A random building passed which looked like the sky had been torn open.
France
The mountains just kept
getting bigger with Chamonix framed by a series of imposing peaks, one of which
being Mont Blanc which is the highest in Europe at 4800m. Upon landing I
immediately got butterflies about the adventures to come. It did not disappoint.
What better way to
explore than taking to the skies! The peak I climbing is on the skyline directly above the paraglider.
A local glacier to
practice ice techniques
Getting instruction on
double axing (he wasn’t belaying!)
Heading up Cosmic Arete
near du Midi, 3800m
An epic comes to an end
after a long day of vertical ice and mixed climbing.
At the finish line for
the Tour Du Mont Blanc 160km running race
Switzerland
We certainly saved the best
til last. Switzerland does look just like a Toblerone bar with sharp peaked
mountains often filling the scenery. It is also quite expensive! The
organised, tidy and refined culture was a stark contrast to the chaos of
driving and exploring in Italy.
A gentle introduction
to the Eiger
Saving the best for
last
Ice sculptures carved
from inside a glacial cave
Bond!
All down hill from
here. Mountain scootering under the Matterhorn
Recommendations
What would we do
differently? Not much really. Our planning really paid off and meant we got to
experience exactly what we wanted. If anything some connecting trips could have
been done more efficiently, and we probably wouldn't have bothered hiring a car
in Italy and instead could have spent more time in Bellagio instead of the Brenta
Dolomites. Shopping seemed to take up a bit of time so it would have been
useful to have a clear idea of what clothes or souvenirs we would like before
setting off.
Europe was a great
adventure with the only downside being the volume of crowds given it was mid
summer. Getting into the mountains showed just how attuned the locals are to
living at altitude and being ready for when the weather turns bad. Also there
is a deep sense of history, especially far north Italy which could easily pass
for Austria.
Schedule
This is a run down of what we
got up to each day:
Day
|
Location
|
Activity
|
Notes
|
1
|
Sydney
|
Drive to Sydney
|
Excited
|
2
|
Sydney
|
Fly to London via Dubai.
Watch movies.
|
Sitting in last row at
the back was nice and private.
|
3
|
London
|
London Eye, Tower, Thames
and Picadilly.
|
Linking transport was
easy.
|
4
|
Keswick
|
British museum in London then
train to Keswick
|
Missed the Natural
History museum...
|
5
|
Keswick
|
Run to town rtn from
hostel, then Castle Crag hike.
|
Local topo map to made planning
hikes easy.
|
6
|
Keswick
|
Hiked Gamarama Mountain
from Seatoller, then bus to Windemere.
|
Good to visit tourist
lake for taste of UK summer.
|
7
|
Keswick
|
Hiked Scafell (highest
peak in Lakes District) from Seathwaite.
|
Got buzzed by fighter
jets!
|
8
|
Keswick
|
Mountain biking tour
behind Keswick, late night of cards at the hostel
|
Good change of pace and
semi urban exploring
|
9
|
Keswick
|
Paintball then British
Parliamentary Style debate workshop
|
Got within shooting range
of enemy respawn area, carnage ensued!
|
10
|
Keswick
|
Indoor climbing, hosted
juggling workshop, pub quiz
|
Gave the legs a rest, on
winning team for pub quiz
|
11
|
Glasgow
|
Said farewell, bus north,
toured Glasgow
|
Fairly industrial city
|
12
|
Isle of Skye
|
Bus trip to Isle of Skye,
shorts walks along the way
|
Long days in summer
|
13
|
Isle of Skye
|
Lap of Isle of Skye, Dunvegan
Castle tour
|
First day of rain, felt
sleepy on tour bus
|
14
|
Edinburgh
|
Tour from Isle of Skye,
via old castle
|
Tour guide was a great
story teller
|
15
|
Edinburgh
|
Hiked Arthurs Seat,
Edinburgh Castle
|
Views good from local
peak.
|
16
|
Sorrento
|
Flew to Naples, got
oriented to Sorrento
|
Bit late getting to the
airport
|
17
|
Sorrento
|
Boat tour of coast to
Possitano rtn
|
Very hot weather and
salty water
|
18
|
Praiano
|
Boat tour to Capri and
chair lift from Anacapri. Swimming, pizza, bus to Praiano, amazing seafood.
|
The perfect mediteranean
day
|
19
|
Praiano
|
Early 2hr run to sea
cliffs, over headlands and through villages, then a relaxing day
|
Great exploring small
laneways. Cats everywhere. First rest day of the trip.
|
20
|
Sorrento
|
Bus to Sorrento,
shopping.
|
Lots of traffic on the
Sorrento side.
|
21
|
Rome
|
6am bus to Rome.
Collusseum, Roman Forum tours. Watched movie.
|
Very hot and dry weather.
|
22
|
Rome
|
Walking tour of cultural
sites – Pantheon, Vatican, other squares. Clothes shopping.
|
Found a bizarre
underground gymnasium. Old sculptures.
|
23
|
Rome/Florence
|
Early 20km run through
Rome parks and along river. Bus to Florence
|
Very hot day.
|
24
|
Florence
|
Early 20km run through
city to Michaelangelos Park. Statue of David.
|
More hot weather. A more
refined city than Rome.
|
25
|
Venice
|
Bus to Venice, then
quickly got lost! View from St Marks Tower were great.
|
Nearly missed obscure bus
stop from Florence. Thankful to taxi driver.
|
26
|
Venice
|
Ferry around outside of
Venice to St Marks, wandered streets back to hotel.
|
Murano glass sculptures
are high quality.
|
27
|
Dobbiaco
|
Bus to Cortina to drop
excess gear and shop, then to Dobiacco Hotel.
|
Absolutely blown away by
views on bus ride to Cortina.
|
28
|
Rifugio Senna
|
Bus to Lago De Bray then ~12km
hike up steep gully to Rifugio
|
Great hike, awesome food!
|
29
|
Rifugio Scotoni
|
Hike ~18km down to
trailhead then up into plateau and across to popular hut.
|
Dinner with a nice German
couple, got local history.
|
30
|
Rifugio Sciotolli
|
Foggy start for uphill,
craggy hiking. Viewed outdoor WWII museum at end of ~14km hike.
|
Climbing routes on Cinque
Torri look great.
|
31
|
Rifugio Venezia
|
Long wooded descent, over
a steady pass and final tough scree slope. ~16km for the day.
|
One of the rougher huts.
Stunning views today.
|
32
|
Cortina
|
Hiked back down off the
mountain to nearby town and bus to Cortina.
|
Feeling very familiar
with the area now.
|
33
|
Cortina
|
Guided Via Ferrata route
to great peak in upper Dolomites
|
Busy on the route and
limited support from guide.
|
34
|
Trento
|
Bus to Venice, drive to
Trento
|
Italian drivers are crazy
|
35
|
Trento
|
Lazy walking tour of
Trento
|
2nd rest day
of the trip!
|
36
|
Trento
|
Brenta Dolomites tour.
Drive was longer than expected.
|
Not as extensive as
Cortina side of the mountains
|
37
|
Bellagio
|
Drive to Lake Como,
wandered around town and headland
|
This is where the rich
and famous hang out.
|
38
|
Bellagio
|
Tour of Villa Del
Balbanio (must do for any adventurer), ferry tour of Lake Como
|
While costly the extra
tour of the Villa and Lake are very worthwhile.
|
39
|
Turin
|
Drive to Turin, toured
the city and markets.
|
Italian cities starting
to look the same.
|
40
|
Chamonix
|
Train to Ivrea then
Aosta, bus to Coirimayer then Chamonix. Did tour of town and booked climbing
guide.
|
Mountains just keep
getting bigger. Great active vibe in France, and shopping.
|
41
|
Chamonix
|
Gondola to Du Midi, then
other side of valley to Brenta. Went paragliding, then train to Du Glace ice
cave. Watched Elysium in English.
|
A busy day of exploring.
Craved watching an English movie.
|
42
|
Chamonix
|
Ice climbing on Glacier.
A long hike in and out, good fun doing vertical double axe climbing.
|
Glacier is rapidly
receding. Need strong calves to use crampons when climbing.
|
43
|
Chamonix
|
Mixed rock and ice Cosmic
Arete route from top of Du Midi (3800m) with American couple.
|
Mixed route was easy,
feel confident
|
44
|
Chamonix
|
Goulotte Chere + sommet
Mont Blanc Du Tacul: Epic multipitch vertical ice then mixed climbing on
lower cliff and slopes of Mont Blanc
|
Biggest day of the trip.
Way beyond my ability but puckered up and made it
|
45
|
Chamonix
|
Clothes shopping in
Chamonix, watched start of Tour Du Mont Blanc running race
|
Legs sore from yesterday!
Good chance to check out the European gear
|
46
|
Chamonix
|
Watched finish of the
TDMB
|
Town is buzzing with
runners and support crew
|
47
|
Lausanne
|
Bus to Geneva then drove
to Lausanne
|
Great views of the
largest alpine lake in Europe.
|
48
|
Lauterbrunnen
|
Drove to hotel, did hike
from top of Gondola to Mauren, and took the lift to Stilhorn and James Bond
museum.
|
More clear weather made
for great views. This could be the best easy access hiking in Europe?
|
49
|
Lauterbrunnen
|
Train to Wengen and did
the Eiger Trail on other side of the valley.
|
Steep sections felt
difficult (altitude) then easy descent. So many train/bus/walk options!
|
50
|
Zermatt
|
Drove to Zermatt, cable
car up Matterhorn.
|
This must be the best of
Europe.
|
51
|
Zermatt
|
Early train and 15km
(with 1500m descent) run.
|
More clear skies, beat
the crowds.
|
52
|
Zermatt
|
Descent from mountain
peak on scooters, then relaxed
|
A fun change of pace
|
53
|
Geneva
|
Drove from Zermatt to Geneva.
Caught up with friends.
|
Starting to wind down. 2nd
day of rain for the trip.
|
54
|
Sydney
|
Flew from Geneva to
Sydney via Dubai.
|
Lots of movies. Good to
have Aussie staff on QANTAS flight.
|
55
|
Home
|
Checked work email and
reflected on holiday on the drive home.
|
Straight back to work,
what a change of scenery!
|
Do you have any travel tips for better holiday planning? Please share them in the comments below.
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